I am unclear on how to turn on dev mode as well as the Yii toolbar when viewing a secondary site in Craft.
devMode is a general config setting and it applies to the whole Craft installation (regardless of the site if you're running a multi-site Craft installation.
The Craft debug toolbar is a user account preference to enable and it should work across all sites in a multi-site installation as well.
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I have the Craft debug toolbar turned on in my user preferences, but it does not show up on a secondary site. FYI, I am unable to log into that secondary site from the front end, it doesn't have such a feature. – 4midori Jun 5 '20 at 22:22
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1Login to the CP should be possible also on your secondary site. You will only get a license warning, since the license belongs to your primary site. So if this really does not work, you should find out why this happens first. – Matthias Redl-Mann Jul 5 '20 at 20:10